The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel: A Sporty Take on a Retrograde Classic
In the world of horology, where tradition meets innovation, Roger Dubuis has always been a brand that pushes boundaries. The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel is a testament to this, offering a fresh take on a classic complication while maintaining the brand's signature style. This watch is not just a timepiece; it's a statement, blending the past and present in a way that is both elegant and bold.
A Retrograde Return
The Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar is a revival of a signature complication co-patented by Roger Dubuis and Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor) in 1989. The biretrograde display, with its unique retrograde hands, is a hallmark of Roger Dubuis' early work, and this new iteration pays homage to that legacy. What makes this particular model fascinating is how it simplifies the biretrograde perpetual calendar complication while retaining the signature retrograde aesthetic. It's a delicate balance, and Roger Dubuis has pulled it off with aplomb.
A Sporty Look, A Classic Feel
The 40mm x 11.25mm stainless steel case is relatively compact, but its sharp, architectural features are designed to evoke power and visual impact. The case is a masterpiece of design, with its notched bezel, crown guards, and chunky, sharply tapering triple lugs. The surfaces are polished, shotblasted, and satin-brushed, creating a textured, yet refined look. This watch is not just a dress watch; it's a sporty, yet elegant timepiece, perfect for those who want to make a statement.
A Dial of Contrasts
The dial is a work of art, composed of seven layers with a predominant "Cosmic Blue" colour scheme. The intense blue colour is featured on the snailed flange, which hosts applied rhodium-plated hour markers with white Super-LumiNova inserts. The retrograde hands, with their pivoting points concealed, add a touch of complexity. The exposed components, secured by silver-coloured bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève, are a sight to behold. The arcing retrograde scales, with day-of-the-week indication on the left and the date on the right, are a beautiful contrast to the blue dial.
Under the Hood
Powered by the RD840 calibre, this automatic movement is a marvel of engineering. The movement is distinguished with the Poinçon de Genève certification, meaning it is fully finished throughout, even the parts that cannot be seen. According to the brand, the movement is finished with 14 different techniques, capturing the spirit of RD's debut watch, the Sympathie, with the biretrograde perpetual calendar movement he developed with Wiederrecht. The pink gold rotor is sculpted, adding a touch of luxury.
A Versatile Companion
The stainless steel bracelet with a triple-folding clasp features the brand's integrated Quick Release System, allowing for easy strap changes. The additional calfskin strap provided in the box adds versatility, making this watch a perfect companion for any occasion. The price, to be confirmed, is sure to be a talking point, but the value of this timepiece is undeniable.
Final Thoughts
The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar in Steel is a masterpiece of horology, blending the past and present in a way that is both elegant and bold. It's a watch that will appeal to those who appreciate the classics, but also want a modern twist. In my opinion, this watch is a must-have for any serious watch collector, offering a unique blend of style, complexity, and functionality. It's a timepiece that will turn heads and spark conversations, making it a true statement piece.
